In memory : Umbe
Photos: Giustino Chemello
I would like to tell you something about them.
The project idea of this particular work is the result of expert hand crafting.
This special handmade clock was made based on the Lemania movement from 1873, a mechanism invented by the Maestro Alberto Piguet and used in the 50s, very compact inside and one of the smallest in its category at that time. This special movement has been used by the largest and most important clockmakers.
The movement measures 27 mm in diameter and 6.87 mm thick, with 21,600 changes/hour mounted on 17 or 18 rubies, depending on the version.
This is an exceptionally reliable movement, and perfect for use in the more desirable design articles. The mechanism was constructed manually by drilling and removal using needle injected lime. The surface finishes were achieved by galvanic rhodium, gold or ruthenium plating.
The decision to create the case as a single block, including the body and bottom, and not in three parts as given by tradition, made its construction more complicated but enabled this project to create an empty space around the movement, which gives the impression it is like a special casket containing the precious mechanism: the initial project idea.
Inside the case, the movement anchor columns rise by means of screwed jaws. The case is completed, and not subject to mechanical stress because it is made by wire EDM, with the antiglare sapphire glass, crown, buttons and bottom plugs equipped with a seal.
The inside is dug out by turning and milling and is then satin finished by hand with abrasives or chisel.
The gold details, like the watch face and hands, are made by milling and then galvanically treated with ruthenium, gold or rhodium plating according to taste.
The 12 inch face can be finished with the same treatment as the details and luminous paste completes the work, which is shown here in each of the three examples.
By Diego Chilò
Acciaio Arte Architettura 56